Friday, December 7, 2012

MSD install goes to hell, and the Jeep goes to the shop

I've been frustrated routinely and repeatedly with the ignition system in these things.  All that V8 goodness (in what is considered a pretty good package by AMC, even if it doesn't get the respect it deserves) is stifled too often by weak spark or no spark.  The cheap ignition module sucks.  The stock distributor cap contact points are a bit too close together, sometimes leading to spark overlap.  The ignition modules can burn out (as happened to me when I was hoping to take the family wheeling in Joshua Tree a few years ago).  Frustrating.

So one recommendation from the good folks at IFSJA.org was to ditch the stock ignition module and go with a MSD box.  I bought one off of Amazon.com, including the adapter plug to get it to mate with my stock distributor.  The coil was good, so this seemed like a good idea.
What a disaster.
I mounted the box on the driver's side near the charcoal canister and cruise control box.  It fit easily and allowed across the engine access to battery, the coil, and the distributor.
Unfortunately, I just can't get the dang thing to run.  I've got it hooked up right (I think), and I'm getting spark when I do the bolt-in-the-plug-wire test against the inner fender.  But when it is all plugged in and ready to go, I'm getting backfires out the carb.  Timing is off.
I bought a timing light, but it's too cheap to be of much use.  A waste of money.  I tried rotating the distributor a little in each direction, but this made no substantive change.  I'm having a hard time figuring out how timing could have jumped so far without the distributor moving.  The timing chain is an Edelbrock double roller and has maybe a thousand miles on it.  I'm sick of this.
It's been several days.  I was worried that maybe it wasn't getting fuel, so I tried to roll it down the hill from its parking spot beside the garage, but that was a disaster too.  It got caught up on a damned yucca at first, but eventually I got it in the street down in front of my neighbor Frank's house.  He's a good guy and doesn't mind at all.  Parked on his driveway is an old Chevy pickup with a camper shell.  It gets started up and revved high every few days to get it alive.  I'm not sure the hard revving is helping it, especially since it doesn't get driven much, but that's his business.

Now the transmission is leaking an insane amount.  What the hell is going on?  My Jeep is acting a bit geriatric: has no energy and can't control its bladder.

I'm going to have to give up on this for now.  I've called Jeeps R Us in Laguna.  They have a great reputation for getting old Jeeps running, even being featured in JP Magazine a few times.  There's even a gigantic Cherokee FSJ that they have named Matilda that is a running billboard for their skills.  I'm calling a tow truck, dropping this thing off, and throwing money at it (or out the window).  They'll get the tranny leak fixed and the starting issue resolved, I'm sure.

----------UPDATE------------

I got the Jeep back in mid-January '13 but forgot to add in a blog entry to mark the date.  The work was incredibly expensive, which irritates me for two reasons: 1) I didn't want to spend so much money just to get it running when it already had been; 2) Jeeps R Us was lousy in communicating the cost of the repair work for my approval.  I was just confronted with sticker shock when I got the call that the Jeep was ready.  The vast majority of the cost was labor alone, and I don't see how trained mechanics should struggle so much just getting a Jeep started when the engine's been rebuilt and the bulk of the ignition system parts were in perfectly fine operating condition (testified to by the fact that they did not need to be replaced).  They put in a new rotor for distributor and a new coil and adjusted the timing.  Seems like they could have been more efficient and effective with their time (which equals my money).  Hell, fixing the tranny leak was only a third of their labor bill.

On the plus side, they welded on a front Class Three receiver hitch using a factory hitch they had lying around the shop.  This wasn't expensive, comparatively.

Jeeps R Us got the job done, but I'm not impressed with their billing/estimate process or their communication, so I'll be looking elsewhere for future FSJ repair work.

Friday, July 20, 2012

Emergency Brake Cable

At the new house, my Jeep sits up on the side of the house at the top of a small hill.  There's a slight slope to the Jeep's landing pad.  I've never quite gotten the emergency brake cable set to how I like it; heck, even the brake shop that I took it to in Redlands couldn't get it adjusted satisfactorily.

My theory was that the cable itself was stretched to the point of ineffectiveness.  I ordered up a new one from BJ's and proceeded with the install.  I chocked the tires, made sure it was in park, and then started the tear down.  It was rather simple.  I just need to disengage the parking brake itself and remove the cable end from where it meets up with the pedal.

In this photo, you can see the cable tucked up in the corner.  The large black steel bar on the left is the foot-activated brake level arm.  The cable mounts up to the end of the level arm like a giant bike brake cable, and a squared C-clip holds the sleeve in place.  Pull it first to get a little slack, pop the C-clip, loosen the cable underneath the vehicle, and then slide the lead cylinder out of its pocket in the brake arm.  It's now free to be pulled out from underneath the rig.
The sleeve and cable housing slides up between the inner and outer driver's side fender wells.
It then slides through holes in the frame rail and the transmission cross member where it meets up with the U cable that runs from one drum brake to the other.
The threaded rod in the center of the pic below is at the end of the new brake cable, just under the rearward end of the front driveshaft.  This is where the adjustment takes place.  There's another on the passenger side.  You control how much tension pre-load is on the rear drums.  Not enough, and the e-brake doesn't fully engage and hold the vehicle in place.  Too much, and the brakes are always slightly on as you drive.  I figure it out entirely by trial and error.  Note: use the double-nuts to lock your adjustment  position in.