Once the NP229 imploded, I began the process of finding a solution. I thought about rebuilding it, but the viscous coupler alone would be $400. No go. Searching Craigslist, I found an NP242 with a slip-yoke eliminator kit already installed. Here is my effort to install it, which turned out well.
First, I wanted to document how far down the 229 fell below the frame rails. I wasn't sure if the clocking of the 242 would be such that it would hang too low and be a concern.
Here's the ugly thing still installed.
Note a few things here First, fresh red tranny blood on it. It's leaked ever so slightly since I bought the rig in 2008. Second, that yellow thing is the speed sensor for the Howell TBI kit, which is (again) the best upgrade I ever made on this Jeep.
The front driveshaft coupling. Again, just documenting how it fits so that I can perhaps notice any changes once the 242 is installed.
This is the 229 shift linkage. It's weak sauce all day, and I'm happy to be rid of it.
Below is the fuel filter and pump for the TBI. It's a bit close to the 229, which is peaking down from the top of the pic.
A closeup of the speed sensor and the speedo cable.
Now that the recon was over with, I had to pull the 229. In order to be safe, I had to lock the Jeep fully in place since I would be disengaging the driveshaft from the transmission and rear axle. Once that happens, I'd be relying on the emergency brake setup, which is good but not great. So I strapped the front axle to a tree.
And I chocked the rear tires.
Then it was just a matter of removing the linkage, the bolts, and the driveshafts.
And I wanted to drain it so that it wouldn't be quite so heavy.
Here's the gray sludge that should have been Hawaiian Punch red.
For removal, I didn't want to over-think it. I just wanted to pull it and drop it on the stool--but not my head.
Speed sensor removed.
Next was the breather hose on top of the 229.
The shifter linkage bracket here overlaps the six bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission.
The separation begins. I've got it out about a 1/4" here.
To move it around and save my back, I just put it on my skateboard.
Here's the transplant donor. Note the electrical speed sensor. I was able to figure that out rather nicely.
A closeup of the slip yoke eliminator kit installed. This is what made my installed not only possible but economical.
Some online expressed concern that the 242 wouldn't interchange with the 229. But the bolt pattern is identical and the input shaft is identical, which helps me avoid having to buy some expensive adapter, but the flange area around the shaft is different. Turns out, this is a non-issue.
This is the back end of the TF727 where the transfer case attaches.
Under the carpet in the front of the cabin, you'll find the transmission access panel. It's held in place by some seriously thick goop over the bolts.
Had to cut through it with a utility knife, including around the bolt heads.
This is the flag shifter for the 229. It comes through the tunnel by the driver's right heel.
I pulled the shifter, cut a patch piece, and used gray RTV to seal it up.
The 229 speedo gear is here. It spins a cable that relays speed to the speedometer itself. It's an entirely mechanical process. But the 242 has an electrical relay that won't work in the Grand Wagoneer. But I was fortunate that the 242 and the 229 had the same size hole for the mechanical/electrical relay that holds the speedo gear in place.
The 229 is on the left, the 242 on the right.
The gears themselves. The 229 (and thus its relay/adapter) requires a long shaft gear. A new one is on the way that will correct the speedometer reading, which has been off since I got the 32s.
Interestingly, you rotate the adapter in the transfer case in order to get it spaced properly from the speedometer drive gear in the tail shaft.
Just pick the number of the gear and rotate it accordingly.
The mechanical adapter in the 242. Job done.
It's one of the oldest 242's, but I like that it's from the same year as my Wagoneer.
When it was time to install it, I tried to build my own tranny jack. It would not work.
Try as I might, I just couldn't get them together.
This tranny jack was insanely heavy, but it ended up working.
I didn't take pictures of the final installation process. It was a very difficult and frustrating process that eventually worked without me in pain or much poorer (just the transmission jack rental). What's better, though, is that I didn't record the audio, which would have been rather blue.
I bought a very cool shifter linkage from
Novak Adapters.
It mounts on two of the bolts.
Novak includes this bendable dummy lever. It allows for easier mock-up before I have to heat and bend the solid steel shaft.
Once I figured out roughly where the shifter shaft was going to go, I could guestimate where the tunnel cover was going to need to be cut.
Now that I'd bent up the dummy shift rod, I had to get the real one heated up and bent into shape. I started with a propane blowtorch, but I had to step up to a benzene torch to generated enough heat to get the 5/8" shaft to bend.
My marks indicating where the bends will be.
The first bend done.
Prepping for the second bend. Took some three dimensional thinking, but I figured it out.
Done. Not a perfect match, but I can make it work.
The woodworker in me couldn't resist the option to build a shifter knob rather than buy one. I started with some 3/4" thick walnut squares cross laminated to use the grain for strength.
Heavy duty concrete adhesive on four bolts threaded onto the end of the rod made for easy installation inside the knob blank.
I'll sand it clean later.
The shift rod mounted in the Novak linkage.
Found this cool and perfect shifter boot on eBay. Came with the mounting flange.
I rounded off the knob on the table saw and sanding station, and then coated it in a few layers of Tru-Oil. It's a little tall in the end, with the glove compartment lid resting on it when open, but I like it and won't be changing a thing about it.
